Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore

In April, I wrote a post about Indiana Dunes State Park, and this month, I visited the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore; together, these two parks make up the Indiana Dunes area. The state park is surrounded by the national lakeshore, and the national lakeshore spans about 15 miles of Lake Michigan. It is a different kind of national park unit in that it is made up of several hiking areas that are separated by towns. But I got a pretty good understanding of what the park is all about.

We started our day by visiting the National Lakeshore visitor center, where the rangers recommended that some of the best hiking trails were in the state park.

View of Lake Michigan from Mt. Holden

First, we hiked Trail 8 in the State Park, which included the 3-Dune Challenge. This means that we hiked up (and down) three steep sand dunes along the trail, which was quite a way to warm up at the beginning of our day. The views from the top were great, though, and I would recommend this trail (just take it slow).

Staircase down from Mt. Tom

Next, we made a loop out of Trail 10 and 9 (in that order), keeping on the forested half of Trail 9. The other half of Trail 9 traces the lake and includes more sand dunes, but we had had our fill of sand, and I had already seen this part of the trail on my trip earlier this year.

Trail 9 in Indiana Dunes State Park

After we finished up at the state park, we drove west to the closest section of the National Lakeshore unit - the Bailly Homestead area. The trails here took us to various historic landmarks including the Bailly home, the Bailly cemetery, and the Chellberg Farm.

Baily Cemetery

Chellberg Farm

Next, we drove further west to the Tolleston Dunes trail, where we hiked about 2.2 miles on the "long loop." The only notable portion of this trail was a short boardwalk over a bog.

For our last hike of the day, we drove to the west-most section of the National Lakeshore unit - Miller Woods. There was a nice-looking visitor center at the trailhead, but we arrived just after they closed. We took a short walk around two ponds (less than one mile) before calling it a day.

Miller Woods Trail

I was happy to visit Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, as it might become the next "National Park" unit in our system. If it becomes a national park, it will be the closest national park to Chicago, which is exciting. I am curious about how the National Lakeshore would change and gain popularity under its new designation.

Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park! As the first national park east of the Mississippi River, Acadia is a special park and different from many of the larger national parks of the west. But after breathing in the salty ocean air, witnessing a knockout foliage season, and hearing the sounds of ice cold waves crashing onto the rocky shores, Acadia has secured a special place in my heart.

My trip to Acadia was with my parents (both 60+ years old), so we did not do any long or difficult hikes. We just hiked around Jordon Pond, walked along Ocean Path, and did the Bass Harbor Trail on the west side of the park. As such, this post will not include information about most of the hikes within Acadia National Park.

Acadia National Park is different from most of the other national parks I have visited (18 in total). Acadia was created by buying back pieces of land from private owners around Mount Desert Island. So Mount Desert Island is a juxtaposition of two types of property - land that belongs to the national park and privately owned property. Mount Desert Island has a few harbor towns scattered around its coastline, and these seem to be separate from the national park as well. So when you drive around the island, you may find yourself weaving in and out of park land, depending on how far you venture from Bar Harbor.

The exception is, of course, the scenic Park Loop Road. This 27 mile road circles around the east half of the park and keeps you within park borders the entire way. It takes at least an hour to drive without any stops, and if you want to stop a lot, it could take 3-4 hours to complete the loop, including Cadillac Mountain, which is a spur road off of the main loop.

One hike of note was the Bass Harbor Trail on the west (quiet) side of the island. The trail was easy and mostly flat, but it led to a wide variety of interesting and beautiful scenery, including ocean views. We got there around 8:30a and easily got a parking spot, but when we left the trail around 9:30a, there were not many spots left.

Here are some quick tips and things to keep in mind when planning your trip to Acadia:

• A lot of the better foliage viewing will be inland, away from the coast. Most of the coast is adorned with evergreens, which, as their name indicates, do not change color with the seasons. Venture inland and drive on some back country roads to enjoy the fall colors.
• Much of the park can be enjoyed without the use of a car. Over the summer, the park runs a shuttle system that reaches from the town of Bar Harbor all the way to the west side of the island. You can also park your car at the visitor's center and hop on shuttles there. This service ends in early October.
• Most of the parking lots for popular trailheads will fill up midday. Expect to wait for a spot of utilize "right lane parking" on the scenic park drive.
• Prepare for fickle coastal weather and dress in layers. The wind is cold at the top of Cadillac Mountain, but there is barely a breeze down by Jordan Pond.
• Sand Beach is surprisingly nice. The water was too cold for swimming in October, but come with beach gear if you visit in the summer.

View from the Bass Harbor Trail

Sand Beach

Ocean Path

Bass Harbor Lighthouse

Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park is nicknamed, "the Crown of the Continent," and it is one of the most popular national parks in the system. It was the 10th most-visited national park in 2016, with nearly 3 million visitors.

When I noticed (in March) an open campsite in the Many Glacier Campground for August, I reserved it immediately and started making plans. And now that I have gone once, I am already wondering when I will be able to go back again.

Nearly 70 percent of annual visitors see Glacier during July, August, and September, when enough snow has melted for the world-famous Going-to-the-Sun Road to be fully accessible by car. The Sun Road crosses through the entire park from west to east, and I think most visitors tend to stay somewhere along this road for their whole trip.

For my trip, I stayed in the Many Glacier area, which is not on the Sun Road but still easy enough to get to. The Many Glacier area has been called, "the Heart of Glacier," and it is a hiker's haven. Since I stayed there for nearly all of my trip, I won't be able to comment on the other areas of the park.

Day 0 - Arriving to Glacier National Park

After we flew into Glacier Park International Airport in Kalispell, Montana, we had a short drive into the west side of the park. Our first stop was Apgar Visitor Center and Apgar Village, which lie on the west end of Lake McDonald. Apgar Village was like a tiny resort town, with restaurants, ice cream shops, and outfitters for lake activities like kayaking. At Apgar Visitor Center, we were able to purchase special glasses for viewing the solar eclipse, which would occur during our trip. We were really excited because we had been unable to find glasses in Chicago, where every store seemed to be sold out.

Lake McDonald from Apgar Village

Our next stop along Going-to-the-Sun Road was Lake McDonald Lodge, which lies closer to the east end of Lake McDonald. The Swiss-inspired lodge was big and beautiful, and I wouldn't mind staying there on a future visit.

Next, we drove the remainder of the Sun Road and exited the park on the east side at St. Mary. We passed the Logan Pass Visitor Center on our way, but we knew the parking lot would be full at that time of day, so we didn't make plans to stop there. I had been following the park's Twitter updates, and I learned that the Logan Pass Visitor Center fills up by 9a on most days during peak season.

In St. Mary, we bought groceries and supplies before heading up to Many Glacier.

Day 1 - Hike to Grinnell Glacier

When I decided to go to Glacier National Park, I knew I wanted to hike to a glacier. I had heard that the glaciers were retreating at such a pace that they would be gone in my lifetime, and when I got to the park, I learned that they would be gone by 2030, which is way too soon.

Overlooking Grinnell Lake on the Grinnell Glacier Trail

The hike to Grinnell Glacier is a popular one, and I definitely recommend it. The hike started out with a near-flat walk along Swiftcurrent Lake and Josephine Lake, and it then it was a steady climb to the top. Most of the hike overlooked Grinnell Lake, and the scenery was beautiful. Be prepared to hike right next to a small waterfall and get splashed.

The steepest part of the hike was at the very end, but it was a short climb to the Grinnell Glacier Overlook. It was chilly by the glacier, so bring some layers if you plan to stay there for awhile.

Grinnell Glacier

Day 2 - Kayaking and Hike to Redrock Falls

We decided to have an easier day in the middle of our trip, but it was still a great day. The boating company recommended that we go kayaking in the morning before it got too windy in the afternoon. So in the morning, we went kayaking on Swiffcurrent Lake, near Many Glacier Hotel. It took us less than an hour to kayak around the whole lake, so afterward, we checked out the hotel, which was another big and beautiful Swiss-style lodge.

Kayaking on Swiftcurrent Lake

After lunch, we hiked to Redrock Falls, and this was an easy hike without much elevation gain. There were lots of wild huckleberries, thimble berries, raspberries, and blueberries on this trail. When we got to the waterfall, there were lots of kids (and some adults) climbing around on the rocks.

Redrock Falls

Day 3 - Hike to Iceberg Lake and the Solar Eclipse

The hike to Iceberg Lake was really pleasant and easy - after the first part anyway. The first part of the hike was really steep, and it got my heart rate going. But after that, the steady incline was very reasonable, and I think the hike was easier than the hike to Grinnell Glacier.

Hiking to Iceberg Lake

Iceberg Lake is a beautiful blue lake that has icebergs floating in it year-round. The icebergs move, so if you don't get a good picture of them when you first arrive, try waiting for a few minutes. We arrived to the lake around 10:30a, right when the solar eclipse was beginning. The sky was clear, and it was a great setting to experience the eclipse.

Iceberg Lake

Day 4 - Leaving Glacier National Park

We woke up early to pack up camp and get on the road with enough time to drive to the airport in Kalispell. When we first arrived and drove through the park, we noticed that there were some portions of the Sun Road that were under construction and down to a single lane. We knew that we could get stopped in some of these areas for up to half an hour, so we left plenty of time to spare.

It was impossible to experience Glacier National Park without facing the reality that the park would lose its namesake glaciers in a very short time. Even without its glaciers, the park would still be beautiful. But since scientists have predicted that the park would lose its glaciers by 2030, it would be a shame to wait too long to go (again).

Crater Lake National Park

This month, I had the privilege of visiting my 16th national park - Crater Lake National Park in Oregon. I had seen many photos of the famously blue lake in recent years, but I knew that I had to go see it for myself. And as with most beautiful places, the pictures don't do it justice.

Crater Lake is largely a "drive thru" park, where most visitors simply drive into the park, stop by one of the many overlooks along West Rim Drive to admire the view and take some photos (maybe drive around the entire rim), then drive out of the park all in the same day. When I first visited the Grand Canyon, a park ranger told me that the average amount of time a visitor spends at the park is 15 minutes. 15 minutes! And I got the feeling that Crater Lake had a similar pattern.

Luckily, I was able to secure a reservation at the Crater Lake Lodge for one night in early July (I made the reservation in January). Summer reservations are hard to come by! The park is fully open for only about three months out of every year due to heavy snowfall. In fact, when we arrived in July 1, most of the East Rim Drive was still closed, and the boat tours hadn't opened for the season yet. Nonetheless, we found some great hikes and enjoyed the beautiful scenery.

We arrived to the park on a Saturday afternoon, and traffic was backed up on West Rim Drive. The north entrance had only opened a week before, and a lot of cars were waiting to use the single-lane part of West Rim Drive, which was under construction. However, the line of cars waiting to leave the park was a lot longer than the line of cars waiting to enter.

Even after we passed the single-lane road, traffic was heavy and slow. Near every overlook and parking area, cars were waiting for spots to open up, and it took a lot of patience for us to the lodge, which shared a long parking lot with the visitors center and gift shop. We arrived around 4p, and after we dropped off our things, we went back out to go for a short hike to Mt. Garfield.

Trail to Mt. Garfield

The trail climbed quickly and provided great views of the lake. Unfortunately, most of the trail to Mt. Garfield was closed due to a snowfall that was impossible to pass. When we returned to the lodge, many of the cars and people had cleared out, and it was already a lot quieter than we had arrived to the park.

Crater Lake Lodge at sunset

We had dinner at the Crater Lake Lodge dining room, and after dinner, we went for another short walk along the rim. At this point, almost all of the cars were gone, and very few people were left milling about. This is about when the mosquitoes started attacking us, so we retreated to the lodge. Unfortunately, I forgot to stay up to see the night sky. It would have been incredible, I'm sure.

Sunrise

The next day, I woke up early to see the sun rise over the lake, and it was worth it. The park was silent, with only a handful of other early birds enjoying the view.

At rim level

Our last activity in the park was the hike down to Cleetwood Cove on the north side of the lake. This is the location of the dock used for boat tours. As a mentioned, the dock was not ready yet, and the tours were not open for the season. But the hike was still great, and I recommend it either way.

At water level

I hope I have another chance to visit Crater Lake. I would like to do a few more hikes and ride the boat tour as well.

Pro tips:

• The biggest advantage of staying at Crater Lake Lodge is to get an early start the next day. The park starts filling up after 9am and stays crowded until around 5p. Book early!
• Entering through the North Entrance seemed to save time over the South Entrance. Also, if you are driving from Portland, try Highway 138, which follows along a beautiful river and plenty of woods. Highway 58 is nice too.
• Bring insect repellent.

Toronto

I recently visited Toronto for the first time, and I was excited to check out this "international" city. Even if it in a different country, it is only about 500 miles away from Chicago, making it the largest city within driving distance. Also, Toronto is the same size as Chicago, with just over 3 million people, and it is the fourth largest city in North America.

My reason for visiting Toronto was to see a huge Georgia O'Keeffe exhibition that had traveled over from the Tate Museum in London to the Art Gallery of Ontario ("AGO"). This would be the only North American stop for the exhibition, and with Toronto only being a 90-minute flight from Chicago, I decided to make a weekend of it.

I flew Porter Airlines to Billy Bishop Airport, and while both my out and back flights had delays over an hour, I would probably fly them again if I ever go back to Toronto. The reason is that Billy Bishop Airport is only a short 15-minute shuttle ride from Union Station in downtown Toronto, while the major airport near Toronto is further away. Plus, Porter Airlines provides the shuttle for free.

When I arrived to the city, my first stop was PAI, a Northern Thai restaurant (yay). PAI is the most-reviewed restaurant in Toronto, and even though I got there around two o'clock on a Friday afternoon, the only open seats were at the bar. The decor was festive, and the ambiance was fun and laid-back, so I could see why it didn't lack for customers.

From there, I headed to the AGO for the rest of the day. I had a timed-entry ticket to the Georgia O'Keeffe exhibition at four o'clock, and I also had a ticket to attend a sold-out curator's talk on the exhibition at six o'clock. I was serious. I had actually planned to visit Toronto earlier in the spring, but when I found out that there would be a curator's talk over Father's Day weekend, I rescheduled my trip just to attend the talk.

A designated "selfie-station" at the photography-prohibited exhibition

The exhibition was amazing, and I actually cried a little  when I saw some of the paintings that I had been wanting to see. The exhibition had been put together with a lot of pieces lent from museums around the U.S., and I got to see some pieces that I had missed when I had visited those museums because they had been off view (eh-hem, Whitney Museum and MoMA). I also got to see some pieces that are usually at museums that I had never been to before. It was a bit overwhelming to see so much of her art in once place, and I got more emotional about it than I thought I would. I also thought about how 15-year-old Alice, who first discovered Georgia O'Keeffe at her high school library, had no idea how much this art would mean to her so many years later.

After the exhibition and the curator's talk (which was amazing and worth the special trip), I headed to my AirBnB for the night. For dinner, I stopped by Bahn Mi Boys for a Vietnamese bahn mi sandwich (pork belly), and it was delicious.

On Saturday, I got up early to get in a solid half-day before I would need to head to the airport. I didn't have a set plan on where I would go, but I knew there were some landmarks I wanted to see, and I figured that I wandering around would get me to most of them eventually.

Toronto City Hall

My first stop was Graffiti Alley, a few blocks of buildings lined with street art. It is legal to write graffiti here.

I gave myself a bit of an architecture of Toronto, checking out works by Mies van der Rohe and I.M. Pei. The AGO was actually redesigned by Frank Gehry, who was born in Toronto.

A view of downtown Toronto from Corktown Common park

At nine o'clock, I met up with my  "Toronto Greeter," and she took me on a long walk through some neighborhoods that I had no idea about, and I got to see a lot more than I expected to. We saw some beautiful homes and gardens in Cabbagetown, brand new developments in Corktown, the historical and beautiful Distillery District, and the world-famous St. Lawrence Market.

The most unexpected thing I saw in Toronto - a dog fountain

Overall, I was impressed with Toronto, and I enjoyed my trip. It is a large city, and there is plenty to see, and as they say about Canadians, everyone was really nice!

Castle Rock State Park

Note: This post is about the Castle Rock State Park located in the town of Oregon, Illinois. Not the park located in California.

Most Chicago-based hiking enthusiasts have probably heard of Starved Rock State Park. They have probably also been there several times. It is one of the most popular parks near the city, and I feel like I have been there enough times. I figured it would be packed over Memorial Day weekend, so I decided to check out a smaller state park that I had never been to before.

Castle Rock State Park is located exactly 100 miles west of Chicago, and it is actually closer to the Mississippi River than it is to Lake Michigan (Illinois is a surprisingly narrow state). Oregon is a small town that seems to be flanked by state parks and state forests on all sides. In addition to Castle Rock State Park, Lowden State Park and White Pines State Park are also nearby.

Castle Rock is on the Rock River, but most of the 6-7 miles of trail are off the river and through some prairies. There are some hills, but most of the scenic views are right on the river (there is a short boardwalk and stairs to a great viewpoint). I think the view of the riverbanks and the bluffs that surround parts of the river would be best seen from a canoe or kayak on the water, and if I were to go back, I would try to rent a kayak and get on the water. :)

Pros:

• Closer to Chicago than Starved Rock (1 hour 45 minutes one way)
• Dog-friendly (pets must be kept on leashes)
• Smaller crowds than Starved Rock
• Water-front fishing
• Great for wildflowers, wildlife (deer), and birding (eagles)

Cons:

• Really small (less than 7 miles of total trails)
• Nothing too interesting in terms of terrain except right along the river (which means you cannot see some of the best views on foot - you need to be on the river in a kayak or something)

View from the North Trails

View of the Rock River

Some of the sandstone bluffs along the river

Disneyland!

In order to put this post into context, I should reveal my age - I am 32 years old. I actually just turned 32 and a half, and now I've also revealed that I'm the type of 32-year-old that celebrates half birthdays.

Now, imagine a 32-year-old woman with no kids at Disneyland along with her two 30-something-year-old, child-free best friends. If you are imagining that we had an awesome time, then you would be right. We had an amazing time.

I met these friends as a freshman in college (so cliche!). Emily and I were paired up to be roommates by the student housing department based on a short questionnaire about living preferences. I then met Talia through Emily, and the three of us have remained close since 2003.

One of the best times we had in college together was when we went to Disneyland, so when we all headed back to Southern California for our 10-year college reunion, a side-trip to Disneyland was at the top of our list.

Lovely flower display that I would never have noticed 10 years ago...

Needless to say, a lot has changed in the past 10 years. With regards to travel, the internet has become an indispensable source of research. With all the travel blogs and articles people write about Disneyland, not to mention the official Disneyland app, I had more information about the park than ever before.

Also, I have become a much more experienced traveler in the past 10 years. The last time I went to Disneyland, I had no idea what was going on there. I didn't even looked a map beforehand. But this time, things were different. I looked into all sorts of topics, like the best foods to eat, the rides with the longest rides, the best foods to eat, etc. And by the time I arrived to Los Angeles, I felt ready. Here are my tips for a great trip to Disneyland!

First: get there early!

A great trip starts early when the park is least full

The rides to FastPass: 

Indiana Jones and Space Mountain (currently converted to a Star Wars themed Hyperspace Mountain)

The ride to go on twice: 

Thunder Mountain Railroad

My favorite ride: 

It's a Small World

The best ride that I am the worst at: 

Buzz Lightyear

Lunch:

lobster roll from Harbour Galley

Dessert: 

churro from one of many stands

Snack: 

meat skewers from Bengal Barbeque

Dinner: 

salad at River Belle Terrace

Dessert: 

Dole Whip from Enchanted Tiki Resort

Souvenir: commemorative travel mug with hot chocolate

Indiana Dunes State Park

I recently had the pleasure of revisiting Indiana Dunes State Park on an outing organized by the Chicago Sierra Club. I had been to the dunes once or twice before, but I must have seen a different section because I ended up 1) learning a lot about what the dunes have to offer and 2) having a great time.

The first thing I learned was that the dunes are really close to Chicago - less than 50 miles from downtown. This makes Indiana Dunes State Park closer to Chicago than Starved Rock State Park in Illinois. I sent my parents the following picture of me on the dunes, and they had no idea where I was. I could have easily been in a different state or even a different country. I had to quickly reassure them that I was only in Indiana.

Would you guess that I was in Indiana?

As you may know, I don't typically travel or hike with tour guides, but this outing was lead by a veteran Sierra Club member and avid plant and tree enthusiast. I learned a lot about all the wildflowers and tree species that we walked past, and this really enhanced the trip.

Marsh Marigolds

We began our hike at the Nature Center, and we started walking along Trail 2. We ran into a ranger who told us that the Trail 2 Boardwalk, which connected Trails 2 and 10, was closed due to water and damage. The boardwalk had been closed for three years, but there was too much "red tape" and too little money to repair the damage.

Regardless, our trip leader decided that we would continue on Trail 2 and survey the damage ourselves before turning back... we hiked in wooded forest for about three miles when we came to the boardwalk. The boardwalk crossed over extremely wet marshlands, and when we got about halfway into the marsh, we saw why the trail had been closed - some of the boardwalk had been damaged, and the planks had sunk under the water. Crossing this portion of the trail would mean getting our feet wet.

Broken Bridge

After some debate and a casual vote, we decided to go forth. One by one, each member of our group carefully stepped over the damaged planks, and we all made it safely across. Of course, I slipped and almost fell into the water, but my trip leader saved me.

After we safely crossed the boardwalk and reached Trail 10, we headed to the Furnessville Blowout to have lunch closer to the lake. This was our view during lunch:

Lake Michigan

This section of the park was more like the dunes I knew from previous visits. Sandy hills that were shaped like they were being pushed away from the lake by the wind.

The Dunes

After lunch, we hiked back to the Nature Center via Trail 9, which took us up and down a couple of dunes and passed a couple of blowouts, all with great views of the lake. We hiked over six miles in total and saw three major types of terrain -wood forest, marshlands, and lakeside dunes.

Hepatica

I sort of signed up for this Chicago Sierra Club trip on a whim, and I didn't really know what to expect, but it turned out to be a great trip. I often complain about how Chicago doesn't have enough places to hike, but I had never thought of the Indiana Dunes as the "gem" it turned out to be.

Joshua Tree National Park

Whenever someone asks me what my favorite national park is, I say it's Joshua Tree. I am not sure if that's actually true anymore (there are so many great ones), but it is certainly the park with the biggest place in my heart. I had the fortune of living within driving distance of this park while I attended college and grad school, and I visited whenever I could find someone to take me. I left California in 2009, and I hadn't been back to Joshua Tree since then.

When I started planning for my 10-year college reunion, I thought it would be a perfect time to return to Joshua Tree. However, my reunion trip got filled up with other things... meeting with long-lost friends, Disneyland, etc., so I decided to carve off Joshua Tree and go on my own a month early.

Solo backpacking is not to be taken lightly - the dangers of venturing into the wilderness alone have been well-documented in books and movies like 127 Hours and Into the Wild. But with the proper planning, preparation, and precaution, spending some alone-time in the wilderness can be the best medicine for whatever may be ailing you...

Planning, Preparation, and Precaution

I started planning my trip weeks in advance. It was my first hiking trip since September (!), and I was anxious to kick off my round of national park trips for the year. I found a great REI packing list specifically designed for backpacking in Joshua Tree, and as I started checking things off, the pile of supplies on my living room floor grew larger and larger. Without water (which weighs more than eight pounds a gallon), my fully-packed backpack weighed just over 20 pounds. With water, it would weigh closer to 30 pounds.

My plan was to start at the Keys West backcountry registration board and hike the popular Boyscout Trail to Willow Hole. The Wonderland of Rocks, which lies east of the Boyscout Trail, is limited to day-use only (no camping), so I planned to set up camp somewhere west of the trail then explore Willow Hole with lighter day-gear only. It was important to make a detailed itinerary because I would leave a copy of it in my car overnight - just in case of a search party.

Something about bright clothes and camping...

Into the Wild

I arrived to the park around two o'clock on Saturday afternoon, and the visitor center was very busy. I checked in with a park ranger to go over my plans and get the latest weather report, and she told me that I seemed like I knew what I was doing - I nearly hugged her. With the ranger's blessing, I headed into the park through the west entrance. Pro-tip: the only flush toilets and sinks in the park are at the west entrance (not even at the visitor center).

About twenty minutes past the park entrance, I came to the Keys West backcountry registration board and the trailhead for the Boyscout Trail. As I feared, the parking lot was full. There were even cars parked in unmarked "spots" along whatever curb was available. But the ranger had told me to wait it out, and sure enough, after just a few minutes, a group of day-hikers came back to the lot and left with their car. Huzzah! The hardest part of my plan (finding a parking spot) was over.

After filling out a backcountry registration form, I strapped on my backpack and started my journey. It was around three o'clock by now, and dozens of day-hikers were headed out on the trail as I headed in. I eyed the boulder piles to the west of the trail - I was hoping to find a good spot with some wind protection to set up camp. But it seemed like most of the boulder piles were already occupied by other campers and climbers, so I continued on my way.

In about a mile, I came to the fork where the Willow Hole Trail splits off from the Boyscout Trail. This is where I wanted to drop off most of my stuff. I found a nice set of bushes to hide my pack in, and then I headed into the Wonderland of Rocks. It was almost four o'clock by now, and the number of day-hikers I saw dwindled.

The Wonderland of Rocks

After about an hour of exploring, I headed back to the Boyscout Trail. Sunset was supposed to be at 5:45p, but I could tell that some westward mountains would move that time up. I picked up my backpack from its super-secret hiding spot, and I headed back down the trail towards some of the rock piles I had seen earlier.

Most of the "rock piles" have names, or climbing route names. I was hoping that some of the climbers would have left by now, and sure enough, I found a nice rock pile to have for myself for the night. There were still some climbers on it when I arrived, but they didn't have any camping gear with them, so I figured they would head out by sunset, and I was right. My rock pile was called Mustang Ranch.

Up close and personal with Mustang Ranch

I set up camp as quickly as I could as the sun went down, but the wind didn't make it easy. I had come to park thinking that I would try some night photography (the stars are amazing in the desert), but overcast skies foiled my plans. Instead, I furiously took photos as the sky changed colors for the brief period after sunset.

In the morning, I wanted to get up early and visit some of the park's most popular rock formations - Skull Rock, Arch Rock, and Hidden Valley. I woke up about an hour before sunrise, and I started packing my things. I left camp at six o'clock, and I had the trail to myself. Once I got back to my car and on the road, I noticed a huge difference between when I had arrived to the park the day before (when every parking lot and pull-off was full) and these beautiful, quiet, early morning hours. I felt like I had the whole park to myself, and it was great. Pro-trip: this park draws large crowds on the weekends, but close to sunset and sunrise, you can still find some solitude.

Skull Rock near Jumbo Rocks Campgrounds

My MVPs of the trip were:

1. My self-inflating sleeping pad, which makes sleeping on the cold desert ground a million times more comfortable.
2. My collection of Taylor Swift CDs, which I played nonstop whenever I was in the car. One of the things I miss most about driving regularly is singing at the top of my lungs - I made up for lost time and more on this trip.
3. Southwest Airlines for giving me so many goodies to take with me into the backcountry - when the attendant came by with a box full of bagged honey roasted peanuts, Fritos, and Oreos and told me that I could take as many as I wanted... I took advantage.

Arch Rock near White Tank Campground

So you want to go to Joshua Tree...

In 2016, Joshua Tree saw over 2.5 million visitors, and this was double the number of visitors they saw just a few years earlier. Look at the sudden upswing after 2013:

Source: irma.nps.gov

What does this fast growth mean for the park? Well, the park is busy. Parking lots are full, campgrounds are full, and trails are busier than ever. But as I mentioned before, the hours just before sunset and just after sunrise are still really quiet, and camping in the park is the best way to take advantage of these times.

When should you go?

The chart below shows monthly visitation over the last five years (plus the first two months of 2017). As you can see, the park is most popular in late fall and early spring. This is because over the summer months, the park gets really hot. In fact, I would warn against visiting the park in June, July, or August. But if you do - bring lots of water!

Source: irma.nps.gov

The most popular times for people to visit are March through May and September through November. If you want to avoid the crowds a bit, try going in December, January, and February. But if you are planning to camp, be prepared for COLD overnight temperatures.

Hidden Valley

Lastly, since a few years ago, I started noticing some news articles about the impacts of climate change on Joshua Tree. You might think that species that survive in a desert climate might be more resilient to global warming, but in fact, they are just as vulnerable to climate change as the polar ice caps, both existing in extreme climates. I copied some links below for your reference. Thanks for reading!

Climate Change Threatens an Iconic Desert Tree, National Geographic, October 2015
Planning For The Future Of A Park Where The Trees Have One Name, NPR, August 2016